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Howells, William Dean, 1837-1920

"Seven English Cities"

The two headlands which mark
the limits of the beautiful beach, Great Orme's Head, and Little
Orme's Head, are both of a nobleness tempered to kindliness by
the soft and manageable beauty of their forms. I never got quite
so far as Little Orme's Head, for it was full two miles from our
lodging, and a fortnight was not long enough for the journey, but
with Great Orme's Head I was on terms of very tolerable intimacy.
A road of the excellence peculiar to England passes round on the
chin, so to speak, and though I never went the length of it, I
went far enough to know the majesty of the seaward prospect. From
the crown of the Head there is a view of perhaps all the
mountains in Wales, which from this point appears entirely
composed of mountains, blue, blue and enchantingly fair. On the
townward side you may descend into the Happy Valley, as we did,
and find always a joyous crowd listening to the Niggers. If,
after some doubt of your way, you have the favor of a nice boy
and an intelligent collie dog, whom the boy is helping herd home
the evening cows of a pleasant farm, you will have a charming
glimpse of the local civilization; and perhaps you will notice
that the cows do not pay much attention to the boy, but obey the
dog implicitly; it is their Old World convention.


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