The oaken pews are square and high-
shouldered, like the low church tower; and, without, the soft
yellow sandstone is crumbling away from the window traceries. The
church did not look as if it felt itself a thousand years old,
and perhaps it is not; but I never was in a place where I seemed
so like a ghost of that antiquity. I had a sense of haunting it,
in the inner twilight and the outer sunlight, where a tender wind
was stirring the leaves of its embowering trees and scattering
them on the graves of my eleventh and twelfth century
contemporaries.
XI
We chose the sunniest morning we could for our visit to
Clifford's Tower, which remains witness of the Norman castle the
Conqueror built and rebuilt to keep the Danish-Anglian-Roman-
British town in awe. But the tower was no part of the original
castle, and only testifies of it by hearsay. That was built by
Roger de Clifford, who suffered death with his party chief, the
Earl of Lancaster, when Edward of York took the city, and it is
mainly memorable as the refuge of the Jews whom the Christians
had harried out of their homes.
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